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Almost anywhere one goes in Morocco, the Jewish
presence is felt, whether in Jewish cemeteries,
synagogues and mellahs, or in monuments of Muslim
rulers who had strong links with the Jewish
community. The synagogues, cemeteries, monuments
and communal institutions of Casablanca show how
important the city has been to the Jewish
community during the twentieth century. The
imperial cities of Fez, Marrakesh, Meknes and
Rabat show strong evidence of the close relations
between the Sultans and the Jewish communities.
The coastal cities of Sale, El Jadida, Essaouira
and Agadir still have traces of the Jewish
traders who made them prosperous. The northern
cities of Tangier, Tetouan and the Spanish
enclaves of Ceuta and Melilla have many sites
demonstrating the close links between Moroccan
Jews and Spain during the last 500 years. The
eastern Moroccan city of Oujda and the town of
Debdou have picturesque and historical mellahs.
In the deserts, mountains and oases of southern
Morocco, there are many sites reminding visitors
of the Berber Jews who once lived there.
Casablanca
The mellah of Casablanca is young by Moroccan
standards, not much more than a century old. It
assaults the senses in the evening, with a sea of
women in brightly colored djellabahs carrying and
selling fruit and vegetables throughout the
cramped, narrow streets. While Jews no
longer live in the mellah, kosher butchers are
found in the old market, next to other butchers
selling horse meat. The Jewish cemetery in the
mellah is open and quiet, with well-kept white
stone markers in French, Hebrew and Spanish. Once
a year, Casablancans celebrate a hiloula, or
prayer festival, at the tomb of the Jewish saint,
Eliahou.
The 4,500 Casablancan Jews live outside the
mellah in the European city, where they worship
in over 30 synagogues, eat in kosher restaurants,
entertain themselves in community centers, and
attend Jewish schools and social service centers.
Beth El is the largest synagogue and an important
community center, seating 500 persons. Casablanca
is also the home of the Hassan II Mosque, the
second largest in the world. The Jewish community
contributed to the construction of this mosque,
which was inaugurated in 1994. Some Jews visit
annually the Muslim shrine of Sidi Belyout,
Casablanca's patron saint. Many Jews of
Casablanca celebrate the hiloula of the saint
Yahia Lakhdar in Ben Ahmed, about an hour south
of Casablanca near the town of Settat.
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