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Fez
In
contrast with the young mellah of Casablanca, the
mellah of Fez is over 650 years old. This
picturesque neighborhood adjoins the royal
palace, noted for its recently constructed bright
brass doors. Jews took shelter in this palace
during the 1912 pogrom. The nearby cemetery
contains the tombs of more Jewish saints than any
other cemetery in Morocco. One of the more
important saints is Lalla Solica, who was killed
for refusing to convert to Islam. This
woman was born in Tangier in 1817. At the age of
16, she was courted by a Muslim man, but refused
to marry him. To force her hand, the man
went to the caid, the local government
official. The man told the caid that Solica
could not refuse his offer of marriage because
she was no longer Jewish, having converted to
Islam of her own free will. When called before
the caid, she refused to acknowledge having
converted. The Sultan called her to Fez, where
she again denied her conversion. As a
result, she was condemned to death for apostasy
and killed in 1834.
Throughout the old city of Fez, there are traces
of ancient Jewish life, including the home of
Maimonides, who lived in the city from
1159-1165. Suffering from the persecutions
of the Almohad dynasty, Maimonides emigrated to
escape forced conversion. Also in the old
city is the mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, the
founder of Fez in the ninth century. His
father, Idriss I, fought the Jews to establish
the first Muslim State in Morocco. Idriss
II, however, encouraged the Jews to move to Fez,
so the city could benefit from their skills and
finances.
In the face of a declining population, the Jewish
community of Fez is working hard to maintain its
community spirit and preserve its heritage
and traditions. The community center, Centre
Communautaire "Maimonide," is one of
the most well organized in Morocco, with a
kosher restaurant and modern synagogue on the
premises. The restaurant sometimes has
available mahia, or home-made l'eau de vie, the
anise-flavored alcoholic drink for which Moroccan
Jews are well-known. The Center was created
in the early 1980's in a building housing a
Talmud Torah synagogue and school.
Nearby the community center is Roben Ben Sadoun
Synagogue. Built in the 1920's, it is decorated
with exquisite plaster carving reminiscent of the
decoration of traditional mosques and
medersas. It is large by the standards of
Morocco, where every rich Jewish family desired
its own synagogue.
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