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Tetouan
Tetouan has an important mellah with several
synagogues that have been turned into houses. The
Ben Gualid, Pintada and Crudo Synagogues have all
been dismantled within the last few years. The
major synagogue still in use is in the European
city. A Jewish social club is used by the
150 Jews still living in Tetouan as well as by
Muslims. Tetouan is the site of the first
Alliance Israelite Universelle school,
established in 1862 after Morocco regained
control of the city from the Spanish. The
cemetery, located on Monte Dersa, is vast. The
major saint is Isaac Benoualide. Near-by Tetouan
is Ceuta (Sebta), a Spanish enclave on the
Mediterranean coast. Spanish Jews maintain the
modern synagogue and ancient cemetery.
Tangier
Tangier had no formal mellah, but instead an
unprotected Jewish quarter. On Rue des
Synagogues, there are many closed synagogues. One
of them, Temple Benatar, has been restored and is
superbly decorated. Near-by is the American
Legation Museum, located in the oldest American
consulate in continuous use. Between its founding
in 1829 and the establishment of Tangier as an
international city in 1923, many Moroccan Jews
served as American proteges, putting them beyond
the law of the Sultan. During World War II, the
Legation played an important role in processing
Jewish refugees from Europe. Visible from the
Legation Museum is Tangier's Jewish cemetery,
where the saint Mordehai Bengio is buried. The
community center in the European city proudly
displays a copy of the royal decree negotiated by
Moses Montefiore in 1864 demanding that Moroccan
Government officials provide equal treatment to
Jews. Montefiore passed through Tangier on the
way to negotiate the decree in Marrakesh. Tangier
has a very visible synagogue in the center of the
European city, Chaare Raphael. On the ocean
cliffs are found the stone outlines of the tombs
of the Phoenicians, who came with Jews to Tangier
almost three thousand years ago. A short ferry
ride away from Tangier lies Gibraltar, with a
large and historic Jewish community.
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